Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic (2024)

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On the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection, Louis Vuitton introduces its new Escale Time-Only Automatic watch with caliber LFT023. Four new references are available, each with a 39mm case in rose gold or platinum and a leather strap.

Louis Vuitton Escale

Many of us, including yours truly, have been craving more new dress watches. It is not easy to find a dress watch that is not your typical “grandfather’s watch” (there is nothing wrong with that, by the way) and that you can wear daily if necessary. These new Louis Vuitton Escale models for 2024 are the first three-hand versions in the collection.

We already introduced the (two-hand) Escale Cabinet of Wonders collection, and now we continue with these new models that try to keep things simple. But they are everything but simple.

It’s in the details

The details of this watch are worth close inspection. As you may have already noticed from the photos, the new Escale’s lugs are a beautiful reminder of the brass brackets and corners on Louis Vuitton trunks.

On the case band, we find a horizontally brushed finish, and the high-polished bezel and lugs provide a wonderful contrast. I am a fan of the octagonal crown with engraved lines on every other surface for better grip. The crown is signed with an engraved LV logo. According to Louis Vuitton, these models have a 39mm diameter because the brand feels it’s the sweet spot for a watch. And LV might not be wrong about that as the new Escale Time-Only Automatic will fit most wrists.

The Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic dials

Giving the dial a closer look, you will see more of the trunk elements in the angled indexes at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. On the rose gold models, you will find the central dial (available in silver or blue) with a finely grained texture is a reminder of the Louis Vuitton monogram canvas. The outer dial (or minuterie) has a brushed finish. On it, you’ll find gold studs reminiscent of the ones on the brand’s famous trunks.

The faceted rose-gold-colored hands contrast well against the dial, and the central seconds hand is slightly curved at the end, following the dial’s shape. Louis Vuitton opted for a titanium seconds hand with a gold PVD treatment. This is because it requires less torque to propel it, which prolongs the power reserve of the LFT023 movement.

The platinum versions of the new Louis Vuitton Escale come with a different set of dials. One of the Escale references has a meteorite dial, and another comes with a central dial made of onyx and a diamond-set case and bezel. The latter has a slightly larger 40.5mm case.

Regardless of the material, on each central dial, the Louis Vuitton signature and “Paris” are the only words you’ll find. Paris is where the Louis Vuitton headquarters and some of its extraordinary workshops are located.

Caliber LFT023

The case back of the Escale Time-Only Automatic reveals another beautiful aspect of LV’s watchmaking capabilities. It’s not just about the case and dial’s aesthetics but also what’s inside the Escale watches. The beautifully decorated caliber is on display through the sapphire crystal on the back side of the watch.

It includes beveled angles, frosted decoration on the plates, and a 22K rose gold micro-rotor with LV’s motif as decoration. On the side of the rotor, you can find the LV monogram engraved as well as the 22K gold “Au 916” wording (meaning the alloy is 91.6% pure gold).

Caliber LFT023 was developed at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in conjunction with the specialists from Le Cercle des Horlogers. It debuted a year ago in the Tambour collection, and it has now found its way into the Escale as well. Caliber LFT023 carries a chronometer certification from the Geneva Observatory, and the “Fab. En Suisse” printing on the dial’s minute track is a little reminder of the caliber’s origin. Finally, it offers 50 hours of power reserve and ticks at 28,800vph.

The Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic on the wrist

It’s time to put the watch on the wrist. My wrist circumference has shrunk to 18cm (since a few months ago, I’m visiting the gym a few times per week, which is paying off), and the 39mm Escale case fits me perfectly. The watch measures 10.34mm thick and, importantly, 46.5mm from lug to lug. Now, 39mm might strike you as large for a dress watch, but it’s a good fit for me. Perhaps it’s not a dress watch in the most classic sense, but it’s certainly one you can wear daily.

The silver-dial version comes on a brown calf strap, and the blue-dial version has a blue calf strap. It’s incredibly soft and supple leather and measures 20mm wide, tapering to 18mm at the 18K gold pin buckle.

I slightly prefer the silver-dial model (ref. W3PG11) as it’s a little more subdued than the blue-dial Escale (ref. W3PG21). The retail price of the Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic in rose gold is €29,000 (including VAT). Prices for the platinum versions are available upon request.

You can find all the specifications of these watches below, and for more information, visit the Louis Vuitton website.

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Watch specifications